Evacuees tell their tales of anxiously fleeing the French Fire

By R.D. Tucker & Sallee Gaines Lang

Wildfire. That’s a term that Mariposa County residents are, unfortunately, very familiar with.

In the last quarter of a century, the county experienced several smaller wildfires, and six devastating infernos, starting with the Hunters Fire in 2000. It was one of the most significant fires in the early 2000s.

Eight years later, the Telegraph Fire was ignited by gunfire in the Merced River Canyon on July 25, razing 30 residential structures on its way to consuming 34,000 acres of land and threatening the crown jewel of national parks, Yosemite.

On July 15, 2018, the Detwiler Fire became one of the most destructive fires in the county’s history. The Detwiler Fire scorched 81,826 acres (127 square miles). Thousands of residents were evacuated, including residences and businesses in the town of Mariposa, and a substantial number of homes and buildings were reduced to smoldering ash.

Only two days short of one year later, on July 13, 2018, the Ferguson Fire erupted in the South Fork Merced River drainage, nestled within the wooded expanse of the Sierra National Forest. Tragically, local Cal Fire dozer operator Braden Varney sustained fatal injuries in the Ferguson Fire, which consumed around 96,831 acres of wildland.

In 2021, the River Fire razed portions of Mariposa and Madera Counties, threatening the communities of Ahwahnee and Nipinnawasee. It burned through 9,655 acres and destroyed 12 structures.

The Oak Fire of 2022, which also began in July, is still fresh in the memories of community members. Numerous residential clusters were evacuated, but the fire’s intensity and wind-driven speed incinerated 127 single family homes on its way to scorching 18,957 acres. Investigators identified cause of the Oak Fire was determined to be arson, and some residents to this day are awaiting power reconnections from PG&E and reconstructing their homes.

Next up, Independence Day 2024. Cal Fire has reported that improper use of a lawn mower in dried annual grass ignited the French Fire, which was driven by strong northerly winds directly toward the town of Mariposa. Quick action by firefighters and first-response personnel prevented what could have been a massive disaster.

The French Fire rapidly razed 908 acres, destroying 11 structures, including four homes, and damaging another seven outbuildings. A good portion of the residences in Mariposa proper were evacuated.

Mariposa County Fire Battalion Chief Steve Ward said, “The winds caused increased fire to spread with spotting ahead of itself into the north town area while we were fighting to keep it out of Stockton Creek and Slaughter House. That was the biggest challenge while we were waiting for resources to arrive from out of the area.”

“We had a populous that was looking right at the fire, coming out of the north, right through Grosjean and Old Highway. It was the efforts of good firefighters that made the difference and helped us keep it out of the Stockton Creek drainage, which is pretty inaccessible terrain,” Ward added.

Evacuations throughout the area, particularly in town, were dirtected by the Mariposa County Sheriff’s Office.

“For me, one of the toughest decisions I had to make was deciding to have the hospital shelter in place. I felt it was pretty safe, and pretty protected and we really had to focus on that,” said Mariposa County Sheriff Jeremy Briese.

“The rest of it went fairly smoothly. Residents in town had a front-row seat so we didn’t have much resistance to evacuation orders in town. I credit my staff. They train hard to be efficient in these types of situations, and that saves lives. Evacuations have to be smooth, as does repopulation,” Briese added.

The Mariposan reached out to two local residents who were evacuated and asked them to share their experience, as well as one homeowner who decided to ride it out.

These are their first-person tales of dealing with the French Fire.

The following was told by local resident Ruth Smiley:

“We were enjoying a Fourth of July barbecue party when suddenly the sun was covered up by smoke.  People were getting phone calls that there was a fire on French Camp Road.  At the time, we didn’t feel a threat and the water in the swimming pool felt so good, we stayed.  An hour or so later, it became apparent this was going to be a doozie.  I got home to my studio about 8:30 p.m.  The light was fading, and I could see the fire heading in my direction. My studio is behind MES in the high school tract near Stockton Creek Trail.”

“There were drinks and food from the barbecue already in the car.  When I went into my house and looked around, the only things that were important to me were my cat, three gallons of water and a few of my landlord’s important items. As daylight was dimming into night, flames were relighting the sky from the top of the hills.  I was quickly on my way to my daughter and her boyfriend’s house. When we got everything together, about 15 minutes, we caravaned, four cars, six people, seven cats and a large breed dog, toward Catheys Valley and safety.  The fire by now was circling the ridge behind Jones Street.”

“On the way out of town, we saw flames ten feet tall heading in our direction.  The traffic at Highway 140 and 49 was jammed with probably 60 cars and trucks.  We felt threatened waiting and waiting for things to clear so we could get out of town. Thoughts of the flames overtaking us being paramount in our minds.”

“When emergencies arise in Mariposa, people come together. We immediately look out for our own.  After this event, I feel more loyalty to my town.  We’ve had more than our share of natural crises, fires, floods, winter issues; and over time we’ve become a stronger fabric.  Not understating danger, it just has more to do with the community itself. Our people know the ways in and ways out, the complete layout, and who lives where.  For example, as the hospital was not evacuated, there were hospital employees outside fighting the fire. There’s a strong people connection here … as opposed to a focus on asset importance.”

“I’m proud to be a Mariposan and business owner here.”

The following was told by local resident Trent Williams:

(The Fourth of July Mariposans Won’t Forget.)

“The Fourth of July fireworks came as quite a shock! While driving home from the family’s celebration we heard that French Camp Road was on fire.  The Williams property (Williams Road) is at the top of town across from Smith Road.  There are two fire hydrants plus a PG&E holding tank.  Over the years, firefighters have been welcome to park their equipment here. People started coming up to see the panoramic view we had of the fire.  Before long there were 15 concerned citizens and a few looky-loos standing around in the heat.”

“At first all we saw was smoke billowing up over the trees, filling the air.  The winds had picked up and it was moving fast.  Soon we saw flames and it was getting scary. The sheriff and fire department told us to evacuate although we held out for a while to make sure the renters were out safely.  It wasn’t long before the fire jumped Highway 140 and we could see Grosjean Road burning.  The hills were aglow and looked like the world was ending.  With the planes, helicopters, flames, wind, and noise, it sounded like the devil doing his work.  It felt like the 60’s when I was stationed in Vietnam.”

“By the time the renters and bystanders left, it was past time for us to leave. Flames were in the yard burning the front and side of our property (near Highway 140) next to the salon and houses. For sure the Williams homestead was doomed.   Sudden mind flash, ‘Now I don’t have to get rid of all my antiques when I retire. I’ll just move to Idle Wheels now.’”

“I grabbed some heirloom photos and personal papers and drove the back road to my brothe’r, Gary, and my home on Mueller Road.  The issue often comes up from Mariposans, “What if I don’t evacuate when officials say to leave.”  It does make more work for firefighters and officials when we stay.  However, if we do, and know what we’re doing, we can possibly save our home from ashes. In this case, I decided to let the professionals handle the job. Well done!”

“Being a fourth generation Mariposan and knowing the back roads, my brother and I drove to find out if St. Joseph’s Church was safe…and it was. I came back to the homestead at 5 a.m. Friday. Firefighters were there still putting out spot fires.  We got power back 48 hours later. There have been many fires that have been contained in our county over the years:  1961 Harlow Fire, 43,329 acres; 2017 Detwiler Fire, 81,826 acres; 2022 Oak Fire, 18,957 acres; and on and on. We can’t praise the firefighters and first responders enough for all they do and have done for our community over the decades.”

“As I reflect on the whole experience, my worst fear was getting renters out and people off the property safely as flames crept closer to us. We Mariposans have been through many fires, with loss of property and even lives. This fire will be remembered because it was on July Fourth – that it went right through the heart of our community on Old Highway.  It just missed the courthouse, St Joseph’s Church, the high school, elementary school, and many old buildings. Now recalling other Mariposa fires (where I was able to show appreciation by cutting hair for the brave firefighters) it’s amazing the way our community pulls together, the many volunteers we have, people helping one another. What spirit we have! No way will Mariposa ever become a Paradise 2018 Fire.  And, what a blessed relief to be out of harm’s way.”

“The main thing I take from this experience… there is a God for sure.”

The following was told by local residents Gary and Ginger Van Meter, who chose to shelter in place despite the evacuation order:

“I saw the fire jump Highway 140 and it didn’t look good to me. The deputies had come to the door telling us we had to evacuate. (Her husband wasn’t at home when the sheriff’s officers came by.) After seeing it coming our way from the porch, I started to prep the house and grounds to take advantage of the large open field with no trees between us and the flames. We felt we could defend it.”

“I knew there was a risk but felt it was worth the risks involved.  The fire was headed our way from the northeast. There were no firefighters or equipment yet on our property. I made the decision. I had some knowledge of what had to be done. I was focused, concerned and not afraid.”

“Two neighbors and a friend came over and asked if they could help. We had four hoses watering down the house and property on the northeast side.  At first the fire was coming at a moderate rate. A spot fire started in the middle of the field and started burning toward the house. Then the wind changed, pushing the fire to the east and away from us big time… fast and furious changing the scenario, allowing us to stop the fire in the grassy field about 30 to 40 feet from the house and shop. We were calm and focused. 

A Cal Fire truck and water tanker showed up and went to work, adding much needed help. They cut a fire break and accessed the area around the house and pointed out things we needed to do.   We could hear other fire personnel working on areas close to us.  We couldn’t see them, but it was organized mayhem. The wind died down and so did the fire threat.  Cal Fire came by later with a dozer and made a large fire break next to our house and the ones below us.”

“I would have heeded the evacuation orders if I felt that it was a no-win situation.  I stayed knowing I could help save my house and stay out of the responder’s way. After the three intense hours and lots of work and help from friends, I knew I had made the right decision.  It was a team effort with God at the helm.”

Many residents have asked why there isn’t a masticated barrier or fire line around the town. Battalion Chief Ward explained that in fact there are several fuel breaks surrounding the town area.

“There is a fuel break right around town, in fact the Starchman fuel component kept the fire from getting into the Stockton Creek drainage, and there are some other fuel reduction projects going on and some planned for the future. They all take money to complete, but the problem is that fuel breaks have to be maintained or they regrow in just a few years. But grant funding to complete the projects doesn’t stretch far enough for maintenance,” Ward added.